Luisa Spagnoli SS27: An Italian Garden Takes Shape

Sage green and antique pink framed the runway, while the voice of Ornella Vanoni established an unmistakably Italian atmosphere before the first look appeared.

Nicoletta Spagnoli approached the garden as a complete design system. For a house founded in Perugia in 1928, the concept also carried an elegant sense of continuity. Luisa Spagnoli has spent generations developing its vocabulary of knitwear, polished femininity and Italian dressing, and SS27 treats that history as living material capable of producing a distinctly summery wardrobe.

Luisa Spagnoli Gives the Italian Garden Structure

Nicoletta Spagnoli’s garden begins with contrast through materials and form. Crisp tailoring establishes architectural lines, while draped jersey and satin introduce movement. Floral imagery spreads across softer pieces, while stone appears through jewellery and hardware. Defined waists sit beside wrapped skirts and generous corolla volumes, allowing each section of the collection to echo the relationship between cultivated order and organic growth.

Color follows the same logic. White, beige and blush establish a quiet foundation before turquoise green, sky blue, solar yellow, orange, ochre and rust introduce the warmth of summer. The palette carries enough variety to suggest different moments in the garden across the day, from pale morning light to saturated afternoon heat.

Familiar wardrobe categories form the starting point, then fabrication, proportion, texture and styling reshape them for the season.

Much of Luisa Spagnoli SS27 rests on the relationship between shirts and skirts, two straightforward categories that Nicoletta develops through several silhouettes and materials.

Shirting ranges from crisp cotton and linen to satin, plastron-front constructions and smoking-inspired styles. Some pieces carry a masculine clarity through their collars and proportions, while others soften around the body through fluid fabrication. The skirts move through pencil shapes, column silhouettes, pareos, minis, open knits and wide corolla constructions.

The pareo skirt becomes especially useful within the collection because its wrapped construction introduces movement while preserving a defined silhouette. Paired with a clean shirt, it captures the collection’s entire logic in one outfit: relaxed summer dressing held within a composed structure.

Audrey Hepburn Shapes the Couture Side of SS27

The collection’s dressier section looks toward Audrey Hepburn in Sabrina, using the film’s elegant relationship between fitted bodices and full skirts as a point of departure.

Low-waisted bustiers define the torso before opening into corolla shapes, while strapless maxi dresses extend the same idea into eveningwear. Draped mini dresses and cut-out constructions bring a lighter sensuality to the runway, giving the body a clear presence within the collection’s polished framework.

Nicoletta uses the reference primarily through proportion and posture. The fitted upper body, controlled waist and expanding skirt recall 1950s couture while maintaining a clear relationship with the rest of SS27 through fabric choice and styling.

This section also demonstrates how Luisa Spagnoli treats femininity through construction. Sensuality comes from line, the placement of volume and the relationship between garment and body, allowing the silhouettes to carry their own presence before embellishment enters the conversation.

Stone Becomes the Collection’s Most Distinctive Detail

Nicoletta Spagnoli transforms the mineral architecture of formal gardens into cuffs, rings, belts, oversized buttons and large cabochon-like elements placed around the chest. One statement necklace expands across enough of the body to operate almost like a garment, placing jewellery directly inside the construction of the look.

A stone belt controls the waist, substantial buttons anchor softer fabrics visually, and chest pieces redirect attention across the upper body. The mineral surfaces introduce weight beside flowing satin, jersey and lightweight summer tailoring, creating a tactile tension that runs throughout the runway.

Linen, Suede and Knitwear Give the Collection Its Physical Character

Fabric carries much of the runway’s personality. Linen appears in sharply defined summer tailoring, including jackets with shaped shoulders and trousers constructed for movement. Rust-colored tailoring brings warmth to the collection while preserving the precise line that runs through the show.

Suede enters through safari-inspired jackets and shorts, introducing a dry, tactile quality that sits naturally within the garden palette. The material gives casual pieces enough substance to hold their shape while keeping the overall wardrobe connected to summer travel and outdoor dressing.

Knitwear remains central to the identity of Luisa Spagnoli, a house whose history has long been tied to innovative knit production. SS27 uses body-following knits alongside open constructions that create texture across the skin, continuing a house specialty through forms that suit the season.

Satin provides fluidity and shine, jersey supports draping, cotton and piqué sharpen daywear, while bouclé adds tactile interest to coordinated separates. Across these fabrics, Nicoletta repeatedly allows material to establish character before additional styling enters the look.

Luisa Spagnoli Turns Heritage Into a Global Wardrobe

SS27 arrives during an important period for the house, as the fourth generation of the Spagnoli family becomes increasingly involved in its future direction. Nicoletta Spagnoli continues to combine creative and executive leadership, while Nicola Barbarani Spagnoli’s appointment as Executive Vice President has placed international growth, digital development and omnichannel strategy firmly inside the company’s next chapter.

That wider business direction can already be read through the runway. The collection is constructed from clearly identifiable wardrobe categories. Each category carries enough individuality to stand on its own while remaining recognisably connected to the house through materials, silhouette and feminine polish.

After almost a century, Luisa Spagnoli continues to operate through cultivation: preserving a recognisable identity, refining its wardrobe season by season and preparing that identity for an increasingly international audience. SS27 captures that process with unusual precision, presenting a garden whose beauty comes from the careful relationship between growth, structure and time.