Fendi SS27: Everyone Is Watching, Everyone Is Undressed

At Fendi SS27, the first thing guests saw was themselves.

Maria Grazia Chiuri placed the Spring/Summer 2027 collection inside a mirrored cube, turning the audience into part of the spectacle. Models passed through reflections while faces multiplied across glass, clothes flickered between direct view and fragmented images, and every spectator became simultaneously observer and observed.

The setup made perfect sense for a collection centered on the body.

Chiuri described clothing as a second skin, something porous enough to carry emotion, intimacy, and movement. This is Chiuri’s second ready-to-wear collection since returning to Fendi, and SS27 already shows her personal vocabulary sinking deeper into the Roman house.

Fendi Starts With the Body

One of the collection’s literary starting points came from E.E. Cummings and the line “I like my body when it is with your body.”

That intimacy shaped the clothes.

Bodies appear through lace, sheer fabrics, plunging necklines, and open seams. Bras and bloomers become complete outfits. Silk rompers carry the ease of underwear, while their finishing pushes them into luxury. Stockings remain visible beneath pumps, preserving the private associations of hosiery within a polished public wardrobe.

Chiuri also looked toward Raffaella Carrà, whose image brought sexual confidence, movement, and pop liberation into Italian television during the 1970s.

Carrà gives the collection its warmer energy. A woman can show skin with ease. Masculine tailoring can sit beside a bralette. A dressing gown can become an evening proposition. Pajamas can cross into daytime. For Fendi, the body becomes the point from which every category expands.

The set drew inspiration from Luciano Fabro’s Cubo di specchi, turning reflection into architecture.

Guests saw themselves while watching models. Models appeared beside their own reflections. Other spectators entered the visual field from unexpected angles. The experience resembled fashion’s current relationship with screens, cameras, and constant self-documentation. The two-way mirror also introduced a slightly unsettling tension. Intimacy became visible through a surface associated with observation.

Lingerie and Fur Become the Fendi Wardrobe

Chiuri treats lingerie as a complete design system.

Lace bras sit beside structured jackets. Bloomers take the role of shorts. Camisoles move into daywear. Bias-cut slips, sheath, and elongated column dresses trace the body in fluid evening lines. Sheer socks and stockings become deliberate styling elements.

Some shirts are stripped down to a bib. Certain jackets are reduced toward their plackets. Open seams create narrow flashes of skin between sections of fabric.

Silhouettes move between soft and sharply controlled. Black tailoring brings authority. Pajama shapes relax around the torso. Plunge dresses create long vertical openings. Napoleon jacket references inject military formality into the sensual wardrobe.

Fur gives the collection its clearest connection to the house. Chiuri has spoken about Fendi through craft, and SS27 uses fur as evidence of that idea.

Dense pelts appear around lingerie. Narrow fur lines travel along garments. Intarsia creates geometric surfaces. Fur combines with beading and fringe, turning material into movement. Stoles sit close to bare skin while fur coatdresses display the technical precision long associated with the Roman house.

A strip around lace can frame the torso. A dense patch can make sheer fabric appear even lighter. Fringe can extend movement from a garment after the body has already passed.

The house’s Echo of Love work and its practice of reworking existing precious materials also give this technique an operational dimension. Craft remains visible while old materials gain new placement, scale, and purpose.

The Best Looks Make Chiuri and Fendi Meet

A black grommet-cut dress turns hardware into a map across the body, using circular openings to make skin part of the construction.

A salmon lace bralette and bloomer combination captures the season’s central proposition in its purest form. The pieces carry the intimacy of underwear with the confidence of ready-to-wear. Fur-framed lingerie gives the collection its clearest Fendi signature. Precious material sits directly beside exposed skin, bringing heritage and sensuality into the same frame.

Geometric fur coatdresses show another side of the house, technically rigorous and graphic. A plunge-front sheer dress stretches the body vertically through transparency. Later, dark embellished surfaces, fringe and paillettes introduce movement and evening drama.

These pieces carry the collection because they translate Chiuri’s familiar themes through unmistakably Fendi techniques. The house becomes visible through material intelligence.

Accessories remain central. The Fendi Baguette appears in lizard, fur, leopard pony hair and beaded fringe. Peekaboo and Mama Baguette variations bring eel and crocodile into the mix. Oversized shoppers provide another scale, while chain details sharpen smaller shapes.

Chiuri also introduced a phone-sized Baguette, a tiny update with a slightly comic relationship to the runway.

Chiuri’s connection to the Baguette also carries history. She worked at Fendi during the 1990s, participating in the creative environment that produced one of fashion’s most recognizable bags.

Her return brings personal memory back into one of the house’s strongest commercial symbols.

Fendi Is Becoming More Chiuri, and the House Still Wants Drama

SS27 gives Maria Grazia Chiuri a clearer position inside Fendi. Her signatures remain dominant. The collection looks coherent in close-up. Construction carries care. Fabric quality reads beautifully. Individual pieces hold up when removed from the distracting mirror installation.

The vision is there. The overall memory of the runway fades faster than the quality of the garments suggests.

For a house built on Roman extravagance, technical audacity, fur fantasy and accessories capable of becoming cultural objects, Fendi SS27 has all the ingredients for a larger emotional peak. Carrà, lingerie, mirrored voyeurism, and fur offer enormous theatrical potential. The collection often keeps that energy controlled and tasteful.

A house like Fendi can carry excess beautifully.

The current internal reset makes that evolution especially interesting. Ramon Ros became CEO in July 2025, bringing deep luxury retail and clienteling experience, while Chiuri returned as Chief Creative Officer three months later. Their work is already extending beyond collections into a new boutique language shaped around Roman materials such as travertine and geometric architectural references.

SS27, therefore, represents an early stage of a much larger rebuilding project.

Chiuri has moved Fendi deeper into her world, while Fendi craft has begun reshaping that world in return. The pieces are refined. The direction is coherent. The technical quality is clear. Now Fendi has room to turn that coherence into something unforgettable.