Blumarine SS27: California Dreaming in Tulle

David Koma had spent his recent seasons pulling Blumarine deeper into nocturnal territory. Spring 2026 imagined the daughter of Dracula dressing for an Italian wedding, wrapping the house’s romantic femininity in gothic fantasy and eerie glamour. One year later, sunlight cuts through the room.

The shift began in Los Angeles. Koma regularly travels there to reset and research, and Blumarine SS27 grew around the image of a Californian ingénue suspended somewhere between beach culture and boudoir. He described wanting to bring Blumarine’s romanticism “out of the darkness and under the California sun,” imagining a woman who might date a surfer and have a very good time doing it.

California just changes the temperature around the Blumarine girl. Romance survives the flight west, now loosened by salt air, bleached colour and the possibility that the day might quietly turn into a very long night.

When the Gothic Dream Meets Daylight

Black still reaches the runway first.

Tulle gathers around corseted torsos in soft, restless layers, preserving the dramatic shadow of Koma’s earlier Blumarine. The body remains tightly controlled through the centre while ruffles break outward around shoulder, hip and hem, giving the silhouette a constant flicker between structure and softness.

Then pink begins taking over.

Powdered and slightly faded tones shift the same romantic vocabulary into daylight, while transparency makes the silhouettes lighter on the body. Cropped proportions expose the waist, long sheer skirts loosen around the legs, and asymmetric ruffles begin travelling diagonally across the figure instead of building purely vertical drama. The darkness has not disappeared so much as dissolved through colour.

Koma describes the season’s pastels as sun-faded while retaining a certain “kick,” an important distinction for a house whose sweetness has rarely been completely innocent. Pink carries flirtation, but the exposed corsetry and sheer surfaces keep it slightly dangerous.

Blumarine has always lived comfortably between girlishness and seduction. Spring 2027 changes the scenery around that contradiction, taking romantic excess out of the gothic castle and leaving it under a much brighter sky.

Ready To Surf

The California fantasy loosens the wardrobe without abandoning Blumarine’s appetite for drama.

Silhouettes move between abbreviated beach-ready shapes and much softer, elongated proportions. Close-fitting torsos often release into volume below, whether through ruffled skirts, feathered surfaces or loose lengths that trail around the legs. The contrast keeps the body visible without forcing every look into the same narrow, skimpy line.

Texture gives those shifts their personality. Sheer fabric keeps the skin present, feathers soften the outline into something more kinetic, and layered ruffles create a light, almost foamy movement around the body. Knitwear and corseted structure occasionally interrupt that softness, bringing a slightly more grounded weight into a collection otherwise driven by air, transparency and motion.

That balance between ease and control is where Koma’s California idea becomes convincing. The clothes may carry the looseness of beach culture, but Blumarine still keeps enough structure underneath to stop the romance from drifting away.

Even the suedeUGG collaboration works through that collision. The familiar Enwrap Clog was reworked for the runway in two versions, one surrounded by a crystal-covered metal structure and another softened with ostrich feathers. Comfort footwear enters Blumarine’s highly feminine universe and comes out looking ready for somewhere far stranger than a grocery run.

The joke is subtle, but useful. California ease never asks Blumarine to stop dressing up.

The Bedroom Has Left the House

Soft trousers pool around the shoes while loose tops open at the chest, turning sleepwear proportions into something unexpectedly public.

David Koma works with lounge and nightwear codes throughout the collection, extending delicate tank shapes into robes and dresses while relaxed trousers fall with little resistance around the body. Ruffles interrupt the edges, keeping the silhouette intimate and slightly undone even when the proportions become floor-length.

The strongest shapes appear suspended between getting dressed and deciding not to finish. Waistlines loosen, necklines fall open and feather trims brush against otherwise languid surfaces. A long sheer gown carries the softness of something worn privately, while shorter lace shapes compress that bedroom language into flirtier proportions.

Transparency removes visual weight, while fluid surfaces pull downward and lengthen the body. Ruffles interrupt that fall with smaller waves of movement, creating a silhouette that can stay relaxed without becoming visually flat.

The California setting gives these clothes permission to remain slightly unfinished. A robe no longer needs a bedroom. Pajama-like trousers can travel outside. A feathered edge can sit beside something almost athletic. Daywear and sleepwear begin borrowing each other’s habits until the separation loses its usefulness.

Blumarine has always made femininity look like an event. Spring 2027 discovers that the event can begin before getting fully dressed.

For Hot Summer Nights

By evening, lingerie no longer waits beneath anything.

Baby-doll proportions lift the skirt high above the knee, corseted waists keep the torso narrow, and slip silhouettes skim the body with barely enough fabric to interrupt the skin underneath. Some pieces stretch into longer transparent columns, carrying the same intimacy downward without surrendering their closeness to the figure. Lingerie-inspired minis and baby dolls were a recurring part of the collection’s California fantasy.

Tulle gives Koma room to play between concealment and exposure. Its transparency keeps the body visible while embroidery and appliqué create selective areas of density, allowing the surface to appear almost suspended over bare skin.

Flowers become increasingly physical here. For the collection’s Anatomical Eden motif, crépon roses are placed across tulle in formations that follow the body, turning floral romance into something almost anatomical. The final sheer shapes carry blossoms along the torso and hip like fragments growing directly from the wearer.

That body-conscious placement keeps the prettiness from drifting into sentimentality. Florals frame the breast, follow the waist or interrupt the leg; ruffles trace movement through translucent fabric; feathers appear at the edges where the garment meets air. Ornament grows from the silhouette instead of floating independently across its surface.

The night belongs to a woman who has spent the entire day somewhere between dressed and undressed anyway. Going out only gives ambiguity better lighting.

Blumarine SS27 Lets the Sun In

California gives David Koma a convincing change of atmosphere, though the transformation stops short of becoming a complete reinvention. Moving from gothic romance into sun-bleached fantasy refreshes the house visually, yet several of the season’s central instincts already belong to the Blumarine vocabulary he has established: exposed sensuality, lingerie codes, hyper-femininity and a fascination with the body caught somewhere between innocence and seduction.

That familiarity occasionally makes Blumarine SS27 lose some of the dramatic charges that sharpened his darker collections. The California premise promises freedom, irreverence and a certain recklessness, but parts of the runway remain carefully controlled. Even when the styling loosens, Koma’s precision keeps the fantasy polished enough that the beach never becomes truly unruly.

Some ideas also arrive as variations instead of discoveries. Romantic transparency, babydoll proportions and boudoir references have already occupied significant space in the house’s recent language, so moving them beneath a brighter sky cannot always disguise their familiarity. The UGG collaboration adds an amusing collision of comfort and glamour, though it works more effectively as a styling interruption than as evidence of a deeper shift in Blumarine’s identity.

Still, the change in temperature has value. David Koma has opened another route for the Blumarine woman without abandoning the sensuality that keeps the house recognisable. Blumarine SS27 points toward a lighter, freer territory. The next challenge is pushing far enough into that California fantasy that the sunlight changes more than the scenery.