Explore Guest Members of Haute Couture: their role, path to Grand Member status, and designers like Phan Huy shaping Paris fashion week.

Guest Member of Haute Couture: Who Are You?
Fashion Week

Guest Member of Haute Couture: Who Are You?

Explore Guest Members of Haute Couture: their role, path to Grand Member status, and designers like Phan Huy shaping Paris fashion week.

January 19, 2026

Explore Guest Members of Haute Couture: their role, path to Grand Member status, and designers like Phan Huy shaping Paris fashion week.

Paris Haute Couture Week is the pinnacle of fashion artistry, where only the most elite designers are invited to showcase their collections. While the Grand Members, houses officially recognized by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM), represent the gold standard, there exists another important category: the Guest Members of Couture. These designers, though not bound by the full rigors of Grand Member requirements, are granted the unique privilege of presenting a haute couture collection on the official schedule. For many, this is both a testing ground and a prestigious platform to experiment with new techniques, explore innovative design, and gain international visibility.

What is a Guest Member of Haute Couture?

A Guest Member of Couture is a designer or fashion house invited by the FHCM to participate in Paris Haute Couture Week without holding full Grand Member status. This category allows the Chambre Syndicale to showcase creative diversity, from established couture-focused houses to emerging talents with fresh perspectives. Guest Members are not obliged to maintain a full-time Paris atelier or employ the full roster of artisans that Grand Members must have, and they may present fewer designs per season.

Iris Van Herpen, Guest Member of Haute Couture
Iris Van Herpen, Fall/Winter 2025 Haute Couture
Iris Van Herpen, Guest Member of Haute Couture2
Backstage of Iris van Herpen Fall/Winter 2025 show, Paris Fashion Week

However, participation as a Guest Member is no mere publicity stunt. It offers a rare window into the haute couture ecosystem, where designers can experiment with techniques, materials, and motifs that might later influence their ready-to-wear or diffusion collections. In this sense, Guest Membership serves as both a laboratory and a high-stakes audition for full membership.

From Guest to Grand: The Path to Full Membership

The transition from Guest Member to Grand Member of Haute Couture is a highly selective process. To achieve full status, designers must satisfy several strict criteria set by the FHCM:

  • Maintain a Parisian atelier with a dedicated team of skilled artisans.
  • Employ at least 20 full-time staff members across various specialties, including embroidery, tailoring, and hand finishing.
  • Present at least 35 original designs per season, for both Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter collections.
  • Ensure that every garment is hand-made to the client’s exact measurements, upholding the centuries-old tradition of bespoke couture.

The FHCM evaluates applications for Grand Member status via a vote among existing members. This ensures that only designers who truly demonstrate excellence in creativity, technical skill, and operational commitment are admitted.

Guo Pei, Guest Member of Haute Couture
Guo Pei working on one of her haute couture pieces
Guo Pei, Guest Member of Haute Couture
Guo Pei, Guest Member of Haute Couture2
Guo Pei, 2009 "The Arabian Night - 1002" collection

Historical Context: Notable Guest Members

Throughout haute couture history, the Guest Member category has served as a bridge for designers seeking full recognition. Several Guest Members have successfully transitioned to Grand Members, including:

  • Iris van Herpen, known for her avant-garde use of 3D printing and experimental materials.
  • Guo Pei, celebrated for intricate embroidery and dramatic silhouettes rooted in Chinese artistry.
  • Elie Saab, famed for his lavish evening gowns and mastery of fine detailing.
  • Georges Hobeika, whose designs seamlessly blend traditional craftsmanship with contemporary elegance.

On the other hand, some houses have participated as Guest Members but chose not to—or were unable to—complete the process toward Grand Member status. Examples include Schiaparelli and Alexis Mabille, among others. Reasons vary: the high operational costs of a Paris atelier, strategic focus on ready-to-wear, or the complex logistics of sustaining a full couture team.

Emerging Talent and Global Recognition

Recent seasons have highlighted the role of Guest Members in fostering emerging talent and global diversity. Designers like Miss Sohee and Phan Huy exemplify this trend.

Miss Sohee, Guest Member of Haute Couture
Miss Sohee Spring 2023 Couture collection
Miss Sohee, Guest Member of Haute Couture
Miss Sohee, Guest Member of Haute Couture2
South Korean designer Sohee Park in her own couture creations

Phan Huy, a Vietnamese designer, has been invited as a Guest Member of Couture, marking a particularly significant milestone for Vietnamese fashion. This is the first time a Vietnamese name has been officially included among Paris Haute Couture Week’s Guest Members. Although major international outlets such as the Financial Times have primarily reported on Miss Sohee, Phan Huy’s inclusion signals a positive shift for Southeast Asian designers in the highly selective world of haute couture. It demonstrates the FHCM’s recognition of creativity beyond the traditional European epicenters and underscores the increasing global relevance of diverse design voices.

The Strategic Value of Guest Membership

Being a Guest Member is not solely about recognition; it is also a strategic opportunity. Paris Haute Couture Week functions as a laboratory where designers test new ideas, craft innovative techniques, and explore avant-garde concepts before translating them into more commercial lines such as ready-to-wear. Many Guest Members leverage this platform to refine their signature style, attract international clients, and gain press coverage, all while signaling their ambition to eventually achieve Grand Member status.

Guest Members as Innovators

Georges Hobeika Fall 2025, Guest Member of Haute Couture
Georges Hobeika Fall 2025

Guest Members often embody experimentation and risk-taking. Their collections may feature novel materials, intricate embroidery techniques, or architectural silhouettes that push the boundaries of traditional couture. This makes the Guest Member roster a key indicator of the future direction of haute couture, offering a preview of trends, technical advancements, and artistic exploration that might influence the entire fashion industry.

A Step Toward Legacy

Ultimately, the Guest Member of Haute Couture designation represents more than a temporary showcase. It is a stepping stone to full membership, a platform for experimentation, and a form of global recognition. For designers from emerging markets, such as Phan Huy, it is also a symbolic achievement—demonstrating that exceptional talent, regardless of geographic origin, can earn a place on the world’s most exclusive fashion stage.

Guest Member of Haute Couture reflects the vitality of haute couture: diversity, creativity, and the continuous evolution of craftsmanship. By embracing this category, the FHCM ensures that Paris remains the epicenter of high fashion innovation, while providing the world’s most promising designers with a pathway toward becoming the next generation of Grand Members.